Tipsy Table

Volume I

Your sommelier tonight
Bryan, DipWSET
In the kitchen
Kam Tung Kitchen 金東大
蜑家菜Tanka boat-people cooking

Welcome to Tipsy Table. Tonight we pour four wines across three courses. First, a sparkling Riesling. Then two whites, side by side. Last, a red from the mountains of Galicia. Each wine has a card below: where it grew, who made it, how to say its name. The map walks you there. Sip first or read first. Both work.

“For the nerds”, under each wine, covers grapes, soil and how it was made. Skipping it is allowed.

Where tonight’s wines come from

Tap a glass and we’ll walk you there.

IMosel IIRully,Burgundy IIRhône IIIGalicia
  1. IWeiser-KünstlerMosel
  2. IIDomaine Élodie JaumeRhôneDomaine MiaRully, Burgundy
  3. IIIAlberto OrteGalicia

Course I: To beginSparkling

On the table

  • 涼拌蓮藕片Chilled lotus root, dressed
  • 韭菜鹽水豆腐Brined tofu with Chinese chives
  • 香煎手打西洋菜墨魚餅Pan-fried hand-beaten cuttlefish and watercress cakes

Weiser-Künstler

Enkircher Zeppwingert Sekt Brut Nature

2022Mosel, Germany

Tell the table

“A slope Prussia ranked top class, turned into bone-dry Sekt.”

What to taste for Bone-dry, with fine bubbles and no sugar added. Delicate at first, then it lingers. The producer’s own phrase for it: ‘porcelain-doll’ Riesling.

The place Enkirch is a wine village on a loop of the Mosel. Its vines climb steep slopes of dark slate. In the 1800s, Prussian tax officials ranked the Mosel’s vineyards by what their wine earned. Zeppwingert, right on the river, landed in the top class. So the taxman had good taste. Tonight that Riesling comes as Sekt, German for sparkling wine. It is made the Champagne way, with no sugar added at the end.

The maker Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler started from scratch in 2005, with no family vineyards. They farm a little over 4 hectares of Riesling, by hand. Some of their vines are over 100 years old. When phylloxera wrecked Europe’s vineyards in the late 1800s, most growers replanted on American roots. Their old vines still grow on their own.

Say it

Weiser-Künstler
VY-zer KEWNST-ler
Enkircher Zeppwingert
ENK-irsh-er TSEP-ving-ert
Sekt
zekt
For the nerdsgrapes, soil, how it’s made
Grapes
Riesling 100%
Appellation
Mosel
Vineyard
Zeppwingert
Soils
Blue and grey slate
Picked
Harvesting began on September 28, 2022, and finished on October 15, 2022, after several breaks for optimal ripeness.
Made
Made using the traditional Champagne method, including a second fermentation in the bottle. The wine was left on its lees aged for over 24 months en tirage.
Alcohol
10%

From the importer’s tech sheet.

↑ map

Course II: Side by sideTwo whites

On the table

  • 香煎雜錦鹹鮮魚仔拼盤Pan-fried platter of lightly salted small fish
  • 手撕雞拼鴨腿Hand-torn chicken with duck leg
  • 砂鍋豬潤炒蜆(配煎米粉)Claypot clams and pork liver, with crisp-fried rice vermicelli
  • 柚子金沙骨Pomelo and salted-egg-yolk pork ribs

Domaine Élodie Jaume

Coudoulet Blanc

2024Rhône, France

Tell the table

“A Rhône white from a plot whose name means pebble.”

What to taste for Salty and zesty, with real weight in the mouth and a mouth-watering bitter twist at the end. Built for a table full of food.

Domaine Mia

Les Plantenays

2022Rully, Burgundy, France

Tell the table

“Still Chardonnay from a village famous for sparkling wine.”

What to taste for White flowers, candied citrus and toasted hazelnut, in the producer’s words. Lighter and brighter than its neighbour in the glass.

Pick a side

Taste the two whites side by side.

The Rhône wine feels rounder in the mouth. It smells of ripe pear and herbs. It ends with a salty twist. The Rully feels lighter. It smells of lemon, white flowers and toasted hazelnut from the oak. Its acidity, the part that makes your mouth water, is brighter.

More on Coudoulet Blanc

The place These grapes grow in Orange, just outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Côtes du Rhône name is older than you might think. In 1737 the king ordered casks from the river port of Roquemaure branded C.D.R. It was an early guarantee of where a wine came from. The ground here is covered in round river stones that hold the day’s heat. In Provence, such a stone is a coudoulet, the name on this bottle.

The maker Élodie Jaume’s family has grown grapes around Châteauneuf-du-Pape since 1826. She started with 5 hectares of her own. Then she took over the family estate. It now carries her name. She farms organically and biodynamically. This white comes from 1.3 hectares, nearly two football pitches. That was enough for about 6,500 bottles.

Say it

Domaine Élodie Jaume
doh-MEN ay-loh-DEE ZHOHM
Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet Blanc
koht dew ROHN koo-doo-LAY BLAHN
For the nerdsgrapes, soil, how it’s made
Grapes
Clairette 80%
Grenache Blanc 20%
Appellation
Côtes du Rhône
Vineyard
Coudoulet Est
Soils
Early Würm (Quaternary) terrace with rolled pebbles composed of clays and limestones.
Picked
Hand-harvested into crates with sorting in the vineyard, followed by a second sorting on a sorting table. Direct pressing of whole bunches.
Made
Fermentation for 20 to 25 days in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. Indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation in tanks. 7 months of aging in concrete or stainless-steel tanks. Clarification of the wines in the cellar during the winter. Bottled without fining or filtration.
Alcohol
13.5%
Production
6,500 bottles

From the importer’s tech sheet.

↑ map

More on Les Plantenays

The place Rully sits at the top of the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the famous Côte de Beaune. People have prized its wine for centuries. In 1629 the town of Chalon welcomed King Louis XIII with 22 casks of it, about 3,000 litres. In the early 1800s Rully took up sparkling wine made the Champagne way. It is still a hub for Crémant de Bourgogne. Tonight’s glass is the still kind.

The maker Mia Subotic took over this family estate from her father in 2020. It bears her first name. The wines are made in underground cellars in Nuits-Saint-Georges, with David Duband. Les Plantenays sits in a hollow. One side of the plot catches the morning sun. The other side gets the evening sun.

Say it

Domaine Mia
doh-MEN MEE-ah
Rully Les Plantenays
rew-LEE lay plahnt-NAY
For the nerdsgrapes, soil, how it’s made
Grapes
Chardonnay 100%
Appellation
Rully AOC
Vineyard
Les Plantenays
Soils
Stony, marly, soft limestone
Picked
By hand
Made
Fermentation is 100% natural, using indigenous yeasts from our terroirs. The wine is aged in underground cellars for between 10 and 12 months, without stirring. It is matured in French oak barrels, 25% of them new, from 4 complementary coopers. The wine is racked by gravity to preserve its quality.
Alcohol
13%

From the importer’s tech sheet.

↑ map

Course III: To finishRed

On the table

  • 墨魚土魷蒸肉餅Steamed pork patty with cuttlefish and dried squid
  • 京蔥豉油皇大蝦炒腸粉Wok-fried rice rolls with king prawns and Peking leek in supreme soy

Alberto Orte

Escalada do Bibei

2018Galicia, Spain

Tell the table

“A mountain red reviving grapes Valdeorras nearly lost.”

What to taste for Smoky dark fruit, warm baking spices and dried violets, with fine-grained tannin. Think clove and cinnamon, not jam.

The place Valdeorras is a mountain valley in eastern Galicia, cut by the River Sil and its tributary, the Bibei. The Romans came here for gold, which they mined from the Sil. Wine here turns up in records from over 1,000 years ago. In the 1880s a vine-killing louse called phylloxera ruined most of the vineyards. Growers replanted with heavy-cropping grapes. Local reds such as Merenzao grew rare. This wine sets out to bring them back.

The maker Alberto Orte co-founded a US importer of Spanish wine at 24, in 1999. Now he makes his own. In Valdeorras he works with a few farmers on tiny plots of 80 to 100-year-old vines. The slopes are too steep for tractors. When a vine dies, he replants with a cutting from the same plot.

Say it

Alberto Orte
al-BAIR-toh OR-teh
Escalada do Bibei
es-kah-LAH-dah doh bee-BAY
For the nerdsgrapes, soil, how it’s made
Grapes
Mencía 60%
Merenzao and Brancellao 20%
Grau Negro 10%
Garnacha Tintorera 10%
Appellation
Valdeorras DO
Vineyard
Granite banks of the Bibei River
Soils
The soil is composed of slate and granite topsoil with a thin clay subsoil. This soil profile is poor in organic matter.
Picked
Hand harvested
Made
Macerated for 28 days. Aged in French oak barrels for 18 months. After one month of natural racking and sediment settling, the wine is gently filtered then bottled.
Alcohol
13%

From the importer’s tech sheet.

↑ map

The kitchen’s encore

No wine on these three. The kitchen has the last word.

On the table

  • 蝦膏海蝦煲仔炒飯Claypot fried rice with sea prawns and shrimp roe
  • 蜑家叉燒燒鵝魚湯艇仔粉Tanka boat noodles: char siu and roast goose in fish broth
  • 蝦醬吊桶炒時蔬Seasonal greens with baby squid and shrimp paste